Wednesday 15 June 2016

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.



Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson



Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH




Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border



Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.

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