Day 17 & 18 - closer to home

Day 17 Rutland, Vermont to Weedsport, N.Y.

Rain was looming as we took down our tent. We have today & tomorrow to get home. If need be, we could stretch out another day but we were both interested in getting home.

I joked that wouldn't it be fun to do it all again but the other direction? Ya sure!! The weather might be better but that means bugs, the mosquito & black fly type!

As we set out, the sky ahead was darkening more & more so we put on our wet gear. Sure enough, a torrential storm hit with heavy rain. We rode for awhile, then ducked into a McDonald's for a hot drink and to dry off. 

It stopped eventually and we set off toward Auburn N.Y., which is in the Finger Lakes district. When planning this trip, I was determined to not take the Hwy 401 route from Kingston. Multi-lane travel at high speeds really makes me nervous. The alternative was to take the shorter QEW route from Niagara. I hoped to make it as painless as possible.

We ended up at a campground north of Auburn, in the town of Weedsport. It had an on-site restaurant which suited us fine on our last night. 

Camping (private anyway), belongs to RV'ers. Most times,  when we go to a private campground, they don't know what to do with us as most of their visitors have RV's or 5th wheels.

They usually stick us in some far corner (which is fine since we don't need services). I can walk to get water for cooking or washing as I need it.

Tonite we camped on a lovely spot of grass in the "transient" or "overnight" camping area, stuck between the RVer's and the kids playground.

It was a nice evening, we could have sat outside at the nearby restaurant & listened to barking dogs & playing kids but we decided to eat indoors & soak up the ambience.

The place is plastered with posters of aging or dead celebrities. We quizzed each other waiting for our dinner - tonight's special. It was pasta & sauce with meatballs or sausage. It was huge! Also came with a side salad & bread. Way too much food & when the waitress suggested we pack it up & take with us, we had to decline of course.

What a mess I could envision in my side case! Who likes to eat cold pasta & sauce anyway! At the border I could imagine me listing the contents of my luggage & the officer then deciding to search the whole kit'n'kaboodle, dirty laundry & all!

The noise from the nearby I-90 was non-stop. Thank goodness for ear plugs!

Mileage 400 km

Day 18 Weedsport to home!

Up early packed & ready for home! We took a short scenic route along Lake Ontario. In the town of Olcott Beach, walked around short bit.

Pat in front of the historic Olcott Lighthouse

Stopped for lunch in the town of Wilson at the marina (our daughter's family name). It was a really good sandwich!

The border was a bit busy crossing over as it was after lunch. We hit the QEW and headed toward Guelph. The traffic was thick & moving at about 110 km/hr. I find anything over 100 km and I just can't judge distances, stopping times as well, plus my whole body vibrates from the bike, can't see much detail out my rear mirrors either. I was in front, staying to the right lane and was petrified a few times as Pat had merging traffic coming from his right side.

Up Hwy 6 and sigh! We were home, in one piece (each) 😃 It looked drier and drier as we headed west toward home but the grass around our place dead and brown & no rain in the forecast. 

Going to take a day or two to process our journey & "lessons learned". Plus I found out I have been loading videos wrong and that is why they aren't working!

Talk again soon! Thanks for hanging in there!

Day 16 - more pics from Mount Washington, New Hampshire

On a break up the mountain - the scenery was mesmerizing....had to work hard to keep focus

That light coloured area just to the right of the middle of the picture is where we started from, 8 miles below. 

Pat at the summit of Mount Washington....over 6,000 feet up! Had to keep swallowing as we climbed on the bikes as my ears blocked up

Pat checking out the train you can take up and down. The engine is angled for efficiency.

You can drive yourself up, get driven up in one of the mini vans or ride the train. Options going down include the same but you can also take a hiking trail down or walk on the road (no hitchhiking allowed). Vehicles are given a complimentary CD to listen to while they drive up. 

Day 16 - Hanover, Maine to Rutland, Vermont

Had rain last night, having the tarp up helped keep the tent dry for packing up in the morning.

A short ride to the New Hampshire border and then to Mount Washington. The last time we passed this way (2 yrs ago), it had been raining, cool & the mountain was shrouded in mist & clouds. We continued on our journey. 

We hoped today would be a good one to explore it. The conditions were favourable and we were told they were "open" for motorcycles.

The majority of the 8 mile climb up is on pavement with some steep inclines, blind corners & curves. The recommended speed is 20-25 miles/hr. 

The last couple of miles are challenging, on a motorcycle, at least I found them to be. One section is dirt, quite narrow & steep. 

Two yrs ago we drove the Cabot Trail on our bikes. I had this awful experience where I reached a hairpin which then climbed steeply with curves & had a car right up my butt. I missed a gear, faltered slightly & recovered but feared greatly that I would end up off the bike & run over by this close following car. As soon as I could, I pulled off to the right, stopped & just let the tears fall & the shaking gradually subsided as Pat came to my rescue. 

I had a somewhat similar time today on Mount Washington. Another hairpin turn, on pavement and with no car behind me. There was a car that pulled off to the right in front of me as I approached the turn & this may have taken away from my focus. I took the turn in second instead of first gear and had to shift down on a very steep uphill. I wobbled, moved into the oncoming traffic lane (thankfully nothing coming), put my feet down in case it stalled & I needed to ground myself, but I held on, got the gear down & revs up & recovered.

I could see Pat up ahead checking his mirror watching me, checking to make sure I was ok.

The top parking area has 2 levels & we parked on the first which was thick, chunky gravel. I still felt a bit shaky but the unfolding view had me mesmerized already.

We walked around, took some pics, video, checked out the museum, had a snack/tea. There were some clouds/mist when we started up but they dispersed by the time we reached the top.

The view was absolutely phenomenal. It is posted that on a clear day you can see across to 5 states and Canada. The highest velocity of winds ever recorded (in 1934) were from there at over 200 miles per hour.

Soon it was time to head back down & I felt a small twinge of unease. I kept front & centre of my focus - low gear & back brake on dirt.....

All worked out fine and we passed many bikers going up and down. We followed a couple of really nice scenic, curvy roads as we still needed to put in some mileage for the day. 

After picking up some groceries, it started getting later & we didn't see a campground or they were state campgrounds in the trees and likely extra costs like park passes.

Eventually we found a private campground on a farm. The couple who run it (since 1968) were planning their (large) garden when we arrived.

The open, sunny sites meant we could enjoy our dinner, even if a bit later than usual.

It was a bit rustic yet quiet and calm for a restful sleep.

Total mileage today - 375 km

This sign is posted at the bottom of the climb up the mountain

We stopped partway up & took this selfie

Day 15 - Acadia National Park to Hanover, Maine

I find I am shoving more and more in my yellow sack that sits behind me on the passenger seat. That means I have extra space in my 2 side and rear compartments for whatever.

Lately I have been storing the cooler knapsack in a side compartment, storing the day before leftovers but it leaks! I have to put it in a bag and then mop up any leaks I find at the end of the day.

Now the major focus of our trip is over, we are eager to return home. However, it is not a short drive to get there. We are averaging 350 km daily, some days more, some less. Today we did 295 km.

As we left our campground at Acadia National Park, we drove out further on the headland to the Bass Harbour Lighthouse. It was first thing in the morning but people around, checking it out like us.

Back on the highway north off the peninsula and stopped at Bangor for a late breaky.

As we continued heading west on Hwy #2, we passed through Mexico and it was real stinky due to a paper/pulp mill.

Tonite we are camping at a real rustic campground about 40 min east of Mount Washington in New Hampshire. It is hot & humid out and Pat did his magic in making up a tasty dinner on the grill/fire.

Tomorrow we plan to make the trek to Mount Washington and add yet another sticker to our side boxes.

Sue at Bass Harbour Lighthouse, Acadia National Park, Maine

Our campsite at Hanover, Maine. Loved the smell of the pines & needles but the heat also brought out the sap. Pat put up the tarp to keep off the sticky stuff. It was a Ninja challenge, getting around all the secured tie-offs, especially once it became dusk. 

Here is a great pic of our two bikes loaded from the back. Mine on the left has the 2 (empty) gas cans and my yellow waterproof sack and of course my 2 side & rear compartment full.  I carried the kitchen/cooking tools & food. Pat is carrying the two sleeping pad/mattress units, the tent along with his yellow waterproof sack. He also carried all the camping equipment & tools/supplies.

Day 14 - St John N.B. to Acadia National Park, Maine

Our first night of camping so far for this trip went well! Pat discovered at his first race for the season at Shannonville that the thin air mattresses only need 20 puffs of air. When it is put at the bottom and the sleep pad on top, you don't get cold & you have a bit of cushion too.
Lots of light out overnight from the full moon. 


Back on the Hwy 1 toward the Maine border. A really nice drive, not too much traffic, still strong winds but nothing too intense, we drove about 2 hrs before getting into Maine.

The coastal road (highway 1 again) was much more busy, being Father's day, Sunday drivers, etc. We found the signage not as good as in Canada.

Decided to cook at our site since many of the local eateries will be packed later. Picked up groceries at the IGA on highway #3 that heads south toward the park.

Highway #102 is the one that leads to the Seawall campground, the same spot we enjoyed 2 yrs ago. I am finding that we naturally gravitate toward those places we experienced fun & happiness at in the past. Guess that's human nature!

Kind of deflated our buoyant mood when we checked in & were told we also had to pay for a park pass that would be valid for a week. No other options for folks like us who are passing through/non-residents/senior/retired.

We were tired after our run of 334 km, didn't feel up to driving around to find another so we sucked it up & paid. If you are planning a visit to the area & wish to spend a week or so discovering it's beauty & wildness, then it would be grand to purchase the week's pass. I thought about pulling up to some random family heading south as we left heading north, to see if they could use our pass but I felt uneasy about it. With all the recent shootings, the person I approach could be carrying a weapon & be trigger happy, not knowing what I wanted....

I find most people we come across on our travels both in Canada & the U.S. are friendly & helpful. I have a warm memory of a trip to Boston to meet up with Pat's brother John & wife Kathleen from Ireland. We flew in and took the "Big T" (transit system) all over the city. One time we were standing looking at the transit map & a fellow came up & asked if we needed help to find our way! We'll be back some day Boston.....love the pubs & the Irish spirit!

Back at the Seawall campground, it was getting later, although somewhere on our travels today we switched back to EST from Atlantic time.

Bonus! Time for a relaxing walk to the seashore & naturally Pat brought along a bag to collect sea snails in.....to cook back at our site. His biggest concern was not what the park officials might say seeing him collect these or if there was any bacteria in this area's water. Nope! Biggest concern was do we have a needle, pin or safety pin that he can use to pull the wee buggers out of their shell to eat when cooked!

Pat cooked us up a delicious steak dinner & we had a sunset stroll nearby.  The campground is still very clean with flush toilets & fresh water but no services. 

There is something about being near the ocean that lifts my spirits. May be because I am a Pisces. Fantastic way to camp, fresh sea air, can hear the Bell buoy clanging in the distance & the full moon. Dad's battery radio is with us on all our travels so we don't have to rely on hydro to get weather updates and we can groove to local tunes. A memorable day indeed!

I took a pic of the area we stayed in from a local publication. I circled the Seawall campground near the bottom

Sue at Frenchman Bay, Maine

Pat collecting sea snails, Seawall campground. Acadia National Park, Maine

A short clip of the seashore near our campsite

Day 13 - Truro N.S. to St John, N.B.

Nothing like the warmth of a June day combined with visiting family - makes my heart feel very happy and content! 

We left Truro with Breda's homemade bread, stewed rhubarb & set off for St John, N.B.

Pat with his sister Breda

Breda and Adrian

They have a resident Pheasant who walks & struts around the back while letting out the occasional crow. We heard him early in the morning just like a rooster!

Pat & Adrian visited the local Kawasaki dealer so Pat could pick up a master link for his chain as the current one getting worn, he said from lack of grease. He then proceeded to oil both our chains.

He also put on the spare rear tire he has been carting on the back of his rear compartment since we left. 

Since we left my bike has used virtually nil oil and his has used 1 litre.

Lovely sunny day, this is the kind of bike weather we love....not too hot! The winds brisk again (must be an Eastern Canada thing).

From Amherst (border between N.S. & N.B.) for about 50 km, we endured strong, consistent winds from the Bay of Fundy that had us leaned over greatly! 

In addition, they removed the top surface of pavement leaving deep grooves that had the front wheel shifting, as it tried to find the best path to move in. This was at highway speed (110 km) - naturally I slowed down but it was still out of my comfort zone but all worked out ok!

During our 350 km ride today, we took a few breaks. Highway speeds on a bike like ours is very rattling to the arms, neck, head, torso. I can't even see clearly out of my mirrors what is going on behind me (usually Pat) because they too are vibrating like crazy!

We arrived in St John, picked up some groceries & found Rockwood Park again. It is smack dab in the middle of the city, up high so you have a good view plus the noise of the traffic below.

Wouldn't you know it, we chose the exact same spot as 2 yrs ago when we ventured out this way to ride the Cabot Trail.

Pat cooked us up a delicious dinner of salmon on the barbecue as we watched the day's glowing sun disappear and the almost full moon rise.

Our campsite at Rockwood Park, St John, N.B.

Day 12 - North Sydney to Truro, N.S

A really smooth voyage across from Port aux Basques to North Sydney. Could hardly tell we were on a ship, very little movement & vibration.

The announcement system must be designed for those who are hard of hearing as it was extremely loud with no volume control. We ended up wrapping 2 towels around it to mute it.

We arrived, bright & early and it was cold out! 

Could not wait for the fresh air as folks started engines all over after being directed not to. I asked one of the Harley guys to please shut off his engine & he replied that he needed to warm it up! The fumes became really bad & then we finally were able to disembark!

Last time we were in Nfld was 6 yrs ago and we were both screeched on our last night by a local. The initiation involves wearing a sou'wester hat, raincoat, singing a little ditty, having a sip of screech & kissing a cod. Wasn't a full size adult cod available so they substituted a baby cod from the freezer. 

Pat getting screeched 6 yrs ago in Nfld

The winds were strong & cold as we made our way west on Hwy 104, off Cape Breton island. We stopped in Baddeck for tea, snack & gas. This is where Alexander Graham Bell made his second home & did many of his experiments. 

Pat by Baddeck town sign

Felt like home again with the great road conditions, well placed signage & heavy traffic. The wind gusts became quite strong between the Canso causeway & New Glasgow. It can be quite demanding, holding onto the bike when it is pushed by the wind & then not overcorrecting it when the wind lets up.

Was wonderful to arrive at Breda & Adrian's lovely home, enjoy a delicious home cooked meal & a cozy snooze tonight.

So far we have travelled 4100 km on our journey.

Total mileage today 300 km

Day 11 - Cornerbrook to Port aux Basques

Pat cooked us up a filling cheese omelette for breaky to keep hunger at bay for awhile.

It was cloudy & cool as we set out for the last few hundred km to the ferry in Port aux Basques.

Felt really chilled through after about 100 km & finally found hot drinks in the small town of St George.

After the next 50 km, I was ready for hot soup & an Irving gas/restaurant conveniently showed up!

I knew from our earlier trip that a section was coming up that is notorious for high winds called Wreckhouse. I braced myself for hanging on tight but it appears today was not a high wind day! 😃

Port aux Basques looks much the same as it did 6 years ago. Drove around a bit, picked up some souvenirs & a bite to eat.

We were first in line for the motorcycles boarding. While we chilled in the ferry terminal, about 6 other Harley Davidson's parked behind us. One couple had driven out from B.C. & said this was their last visit - just too damn cold!

After the bikes were tied in for the overnight journey we went to our cabin. It was about 10 pm & the ferry was scheduled to leave at 11:45 pm, arriving in North Sydney, N.S. at 7 am

Our last journey to & from the island 6 yrs ago on this same ferry route had us trying to sleep in the adjustable upright chairs with light, noise, people all around. Not this time! 

On our arrival in N.S., we still had about 300 km to drive to Pat's sister's home in Truro. We didn't want to veg out & not enjoy our time with them so we opted for booking a cabin. Glad we did as it made the voyage that much more comfortable. 

We had a few drinks, snacks, watched TV & off to sleep. I brought some fruit & granola bars to tide us over till we could buy breaky during our first warm-up. It was going to be another cool morning ride on our arrival in North Sydney.


Total mileage: 265 km

A short clip from a quieter part of Port aux Basques

Our ferry, the Highlander. Only 5 yrs old, smooth sail, clean & well run!

My bike strapped down, ready for the journey 

Pat's bike, mine in front of his & all the Harley's in front of me. We were first in, then backed up against a wall, beside a trailer

Very clean, cozy cabin for 2 & private washroom with shower

Day 10 - Daniel's Harbour to Cornerbrook

After a so-so breaky, during which Pat saw a whale blowing it's spout out on the water, we set out for Cornerbrook.

It continues to be cool in the mornings, less than 10C but with the rain & wind it feels closer to the freezing mark.

I find after 50 km, I need to warm up my hands & feet despite wearing adequate gear. 

The mountain range continued on our left as we moved south on Hwy 430, ending with Gros Morne. 

Managed a break by the water before the cooler, wet weather set in. Picked up some rocks to share with family & friends.

At the Gros Morne visitor centre, we were told no hikers were being allowed on the trail to the summit of Gros Morne due to arctic wildlife nesting. Not that we planned to hike up there or anything but it goes to show the importance of thorough research before planning that kind of excursion. 

Apart from a few construction sections, the road was smooth with lovely curves & I could take in the gorgeous scenery. However, at one tight curve to the left, a truck lost control & tipped over to the right, spilling it's load. As we passed, another truck & workers were collecting & repacking the load.

Where Labrador comes across as the stiff, strict older sibling, Nfld feels wild-spirited, relaxed, lush with green growth.

We are staying at the Grenfell campus of Memorial university in Cornerbrook. It costs the same as a motel room & is spacious, clean & equipped with a kitchenette.

Bonus! Laundry is only $1 a load to wash, same to dry & they supply the soap!

We walked to pick up some local fish at the nearby store, along with other liquid refreshments. Pat cooked us up a delicious appetizer of steamed mussels and pan fried up some yummy cod.

This is our last night on the island. Tomorrow we catch the ferry from Port aux Basques to North Sydney.

Pat by the shore on a break from the bikes

A quick video from our break by the water. Gros Morne in the distance, fishing folk checking their catch



The trees lean way back and look a bit stunted in growth near the shore.

Day 9 - L'Anse-au-Clair to Daniel's Harbour

Picked up some food supplies so we can make some sandwiches as we wait for the ferry to take us to the island from the mainland.

I recognize many of the areas we pass from our last visit 6 yrs ago. 

Still cool but no rain!! Seeing a pattern here, dry in the mornings, even a few rays of sun! Then it gets cloudy and showers roll in after lunch.

We have been doing less mileage yesterday (240 km) & now today, & next few days to coordinate around the wet weather & make our overnight ferry reservation from Port aux Basque to North Sydney, N.S.

It's been a choice of going earlier in the day when it is still less than 10C out but dry or leave bit later when it has warmed up bit more and rain moves in....

The winds remain gusty as we wait for the ferry (pic in yesterday's post) & thankfully it doesn't rain as we sit on the bikes, last in line to board.

The terminal building at Blanc Sablon is in worse shape than it was 6 yrs ago. The staff still friendly & helpful. 

The trip only about 1.5 hrs long & hot food & drink on board to make it more comfortable. I found it very warm, stuffy. 

We disembarked with the others as we were halfway up the boat at one side where the bikes had to be tied off (they will supply the ratchet straps if you don't have them but you have to do it yourself).

We headed south at St Barbe, the weather shifting to more cloud & showers imminent. The original plan was to head north & explore St Anthony since we skipped it last time but the weather has us heading toward where we know it will warm up, in a few days anyway.

The change in scenery was energizing. Where Labrador had sparse, tall, thin trees & lots of rock, Nfld trees are in this area are shorter, wider, almost appearing stunted. Near the shore they lean way, way back from the fierce ocean winds.

People plant sections of gardens along the highway because of the rich soil cleared from the making of the highway, from years before. These little plots are fenced in to protect them from wildlife.

Being wary of moose, deer & any other critters that might be near the road. I am also vigilant of oncoming drivers who may seem to be drifting toward me due to driver distraction (texting) or fatigue. People drive very fast along Hwy 430 & we gladly pull over to the right to let them blow by.

I found Labrador to be very stark, it's wilderness stoic - quiet, strong with a harshness that can appear out of nowhere. It demands your focus & respect in a peaceful, looming kind of presence.

The drive south was paved, full of beautiful curves and little traffic. Pat has worked out our mileage & we are getting about 550 km to a tankful (22 litres).

Had a quick bite at the same restaurant we did 6 yrs ago in Torrent River.

Approaching Daniel's Harbour, the rain began & we unloaded to our accommodation, glad to be warm overnight.

Mileage today 168 km

I posted this on Facebook today. We both have a copy of it to stick on our side box

View from the window behind our accommodation in Daniel's Harbour. The room nothing special - just the view 😃

A special mention to my cousin Martha's hubby Byron.......Byron you ignited the desire to complete this trip when we last met 6 yrs ago. You too had the dream to complete this journey, and we have mentioned a number of times how we wish you could be here too. Thank you for being a special part of our journey Byron!! 

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.

Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson

Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH

Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border

Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.

Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson

Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH

Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border

Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.

Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson

Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH

Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border

Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.