Day 12 - North Sydney to Truro, N.S

A really smooth voyage across from Port aux Basques to North Sydney. Could hardly tell we were on a ship, very little movement & vibration.

The announcement system must be designed for those who are hard of hearing as it was extremely loud with no volume control. We ended up wrapping 2 towels around it to mute it.

We arrived, bright & early and it was cold out! 

Could not wait for the fresh air as folks started engines all over after being directed not to. I asked one of the Harley guys to please shut off his engine & he replied that he needed to warm it up! The fumes became really bad & then we finally were able to disembark!

Last time we were in Nfld was 6 yrs ago and we were both screeched on our last night by a local. The initiation involves wearing a sou'wester hat, raincoat, singing a little ditty, having a sip of screech & kissing a cod. Wasn't a full size adult cod available so they substituted a baby cod from the freezer. 

Pat getting screeched 6 yrs ago in Nfld

The winds were strong & cold as we made our way west on Hwy 104, off Cape Breton island. We stopped in Baddeck for tea, snack & gas. This is where Alexander Graham Bell made his second home & did many of his experiments. 

Pat by Baddeck town sign

Felt like home again with the great road conditions, well placed signage & heavy traffic. The wind gusts became quite strong between the Canso causeway & New Glasgow. It can be quite demanding, holding onto the bike when it is pushed by the wind & then not overcorrecting it when the wind lets up.

Was wonderful to arrive at Breda & Adrian's lovely home, enjoy a delicious home cooked meal & a cozy snooze tonight.

So far we have travelled 4100 km on our journey.

Total mileage today 300 km

Day 11 - Cornerbrook to Port aux Basques

Pat cooked us up a filling cheese omelette for breaky to keep hunger at bay for awhile.

It was cloudy & cool as we set out for the last few hundred km to the ferry in Port aux Basques.

Felt really chilled through after about 100 km & finally found hot drinks in the small town of St George.

After the next 50 km, I was ready for hot soup & an Irving gas/restaurant conveniently showed up!

I knew from our earlier trip that a section was coming up that is notorious for high winds called Wreckhouse. I braced myself for hanging on tight but it appears today was not a high wind day! 😃

Port aux Basques looks much the same as it did 6 years ago. Drove around a bit, picked up some souvenirs & a bite to eat.

We were first in line for the motorcycles boarding. While we chilled in the ferry terminal, about 6 other Harley Davidson's parked behind us. One couple had driven out from B.C. & said this was their last visit - just too damn cold!

After the bikes were tied in for the overnight journey we went to our cabin. It was about 10 pm & the ferry was scheduled to leave at 11:45 pm, arriving in North Sydney, N.S. at 7 am

Our last journey to & from the island 6 yrs ago on this same ferry route had us trying to sleep in the adjustable upright chairs with light, noise, people all around. Not this time! 

On our arrival in N.S., we still had about 300 km to drive to Pat's sister's home in Truro. We didn't want to veg out & not enjoy our time with them so we opted for booking a cabin. Glad we did as it made the voyage that much more comfortable. 

We had a few drinks, snacks, watched TV & off to sleep. I brought some fruit & granola bars to tide us over till we could buy breaky during our first warm-up. It was going to be another cool morning ride on our arrival in North Sydney.


Total mileage: 265 km

A short clip from a quieter part of Port aux Basques

Our ferry, the Highlander. Only 5 yrs old, smooth sail, clean & well run!

My bike strapped down, ready for the journey 

Pat's bike, mine in front of his & all the Harley's in front of me. We were first in, then backed up against a wall, beside a trailer

Very clean, cozy cabin for 2 & private washroom with shower

Day 10 - Daniel's Harbour to Cornerbrook

After a so-so breaky, during which Pat saw a whale blowing it's spout out on the water, we set out for Cornerbrook.

It continues to be cool in the mornings, less than 10C but with the rain & wind it feels closer to the freezing mark.

I find after 50 km, I need to warm up my hands & feet despite wearing adequate gear. 

The mountain range continued on our left as we moved south on Hwy 430, ending with Gros Morne. 

Managed a break by the water before the cooler, wet weather set in. Picked up some rocks to share with family & friends.

At the Gros Morne visitor centre, we were told no hikers were being allowed on the trail to the summit of Gros Morne due to arctic wildlife nesting. Not that we planned to hike up there or anything but it goes to show the importance of thorough research before planning that kind of excursion. 

Apart from a few construction sections, the road was smooth with lovely curves & I could take in the gorgeous scenery. However, at one tight curve to the left, a truck lost control & tipped over to the right, spilling it's load. As we passed, another truck & workers were collecting & repacking the load.

Where Labrador comes across as the stiff, strict older sibling, Nfld feels wild-spirited, relaxed, lush with green growth.

We are staying at the Grenfell campus of Memorial university in Cornerbrook. It costs the same as a motel room & is spacious, clean & equipped with a kitchenette.

Bonus! Laundry is only $1 a load to wash, same to dry & they supply the soap!

We walked to pick up some local fish at the nearby store, along with other liquid refreshments. Pat cooked us up a delicious appetizer of steamed mussels and pan fried up some yummy cod.

This is our last night on the island. Tomorrow we catch the ferry from Port aux Basques to North Sydney.

Pat by the shore on a break from the bikes

A quick video from our break by the water. Gros Morne in the distance, fishing folk checking their catch



The trees lean way back and look a bit stunted in growth near the shore.

Day 9 - L'Anse-au-Clair to Daniel's Harbour

Picked up some food supplies so we can make some sandwiches as we wait for the ferry to take us to the island from the mainland.

I recognize many of the areas we pass from our last visit 6 yrs ago. 

Still cool but no rain!! Seeing a pattern here, dry in the mornings, even a few rays of sun! Then it gets cloudy and showers roll in after lunch.

We have been doing less mileage yesterday (240 km) & now today, & next few days to coordinate around the wet weather & make our overnight ferry reservation from Port aux Basque to North Sydney, N.S.

It's been a choice of going earlier in the day when it is still less than 10C out but dry or leave bit later when it has warmed up bit more and rain moves in....

The winds remain gusty as we wait for the ferry (pic in yesterday's post) & thankfully it doesn't rain as we sit on the bikes, last in line to board.

The terminal building at Blanc Sablon is in worse shape than it was 6 yrs ago. The staff still friendly & helpful. 

The trip only about 1.5 hrs long & hot food & drink on board to make it more comfortable. I found it very warm, stuffy. 

We disembarked with the others as we were halfway up the boat at one side where the bikes had to be tied off (they will supply the ratchet straps if you don't have them but you have to do it yourself).

We headed south at St Barbe, the weather shifting to more cloud & showers imminent. The original plan was to head north & explore St Anthony since we skipped it last time but the weather has us heading toward where we know it will warm up, in a few days anyway.

The change in scenery was energizing. Where Labrador had sparse, tall, thin trees & lots of rock, Nfld trees are in this area are shorter, wider, almost appearing stunted. Near the shore they lean way, way back from the fierce ocean winds.

People plant sections of gardens along the highway because of the rich soil cleared from the making of the highway, from years before. These little plots are fenced in to protect them from wildlife.

Being wary of moose, deer & any other critters that might be near the road. I am also vigilant of oncoming drivers who may seem to be drifting toward me due to driver distraction (texting) or fatigue. People drive very fast along Hwy 430 & we gladly pull over to the right to let them blow by.

I found Labrador to be very stark, it's wilderness stoic - quiet, strong with a harshness that can appear out of nowhere. It demands your focus & respect in a peaceful, looming kind of presence.

The drive south was paved, full of beautiful curves and little traffic. Pat has worked out our mileage & we are getting about 550 km to a tankful (22 litres).

Had a quick bite at the same restaurant we did 6 yrs ago in Torrent River.

Approaching Daniel's Harbour, the rain began & we unloaded to our accommodation, glad to be warm overnight.

Mileage today 168 km

I posted this on Facebook today. We both have a copy of it to stick on our side box

View from the window behind our accommodation in Daniel's Harbour. The room nothing special - just the view 😃

A special mention to my cousin Martha's hubby Byron.......Byron you ignited the desire to complete this trip when we last met 6 yrs ago. You too had the dream to complete this journey, and we have mentioned a number of times how we wish you could be here too. Thank you for being a special part of our journey Byron!! 

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.

Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson

Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH

Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border

Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.

Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson

Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH

Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border

Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.

Day 8 - Port Hope Simpson to L'Anse-au-Clair

We did it!! Such a relief to have that completed without any further incidents, injuries or breakdowns (well apart from my little meltdown).

I want it on record that this is the absolute last extreme type motorcycle trip I am ever going on! Just too demanding physically, emotionally. I am fortunate to have a partner like Pat who is patient, supportive & super knowledgeable mechanically. He wants to do the Dempster again - I say great! I'll follow you in a van or other vehicle but not a bike.

I love driving a bike! The freedom, being outdoors, the feeling of flying through (paved) curves and the ability to control the power and movements by using the strength and flexibility
of my body.

Pat has now driven the Haul road from Fairbanks to the Arctic circle in Alaska and we have both driven the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon, the Dempster in the Yukon/NWT & now the TLH. We both agree the TLH is the most challenging due to the road conditions, the length, the unpredictable weather, and the incessant blowing of the wind, off the Mealy Mountains and from the Atlantic coast.

It was another jolting, squiggling ride in the gravel today after we left Port Hope Simpson. We know the pavement begins at Red Bay so that is where we consider the intense part of our trip complete although the TLH ends at the Quebec border.

Stopped at Mary's Harbour for some hot soup and tea. My motorcycle was parked in a driveway - same year, 2002.

It appears that the Labradorites we met have kissed their own local Blarney stone as they talk a lot! Perhaps it is because of the remoteness and new visitors they want to share their stories with.

As we rode closer to Red Bay, the wind picked up and the temperature went down, more snow roadside. Stopping to rest for a few minutes became a bit futile because the spots to pull over safely were few & far between.  I would give the "take 5" signal and it seemed like we continued driving for km! 

There was no shelter from the strong, colder gusts of wind. Finding a place for me to pee away from the breeze and any stray passing driver another quest. Kept our energy up with granola bars & water. Haven't used the bug spray even once!

Finally reached Red Bay and visited the Interpretive centre (no charge) to mainly warm up & get our bearings again. 

Stopped L'anse-au-Loup to warm up again as we looked for a place to stay the night. The early ferry booked for tomorrow so we booked for the afternoon.

The rain started coming down harder. The road toward the Blanc Sablon ferry is curved, steep with breathtaking views. Icebergs littered the waters just out from the land. We found a refuge in L'Anse-au-Clair. Then the heavens opened up, unleashing a torrent of rain and wind all night. 

Bit naïve of us to think we would be able to camp in this northern region at this time of year. The weather has not been in our favour either.

The TLH challenged my skills as a bike driver and although I felt many instances where my front tire started sliding, I was able to hang on and stay upright.

No other bikes on it either, except those 2 we passed on Hwy 389.

Map of the TLH from Goose Bay/Labrador to Port Hope Simpson

Celebrating our achievement of driving the TLH

Big road sign at the Labrador-Quebec border

Waiting for the ferry from Blanc Sablon Quebec to St Barbe Nfld. Making our way south to N.S.