Follow-up and final thoughts on our expedition

The last couple of weeks have passed by quickly as we pretty well assimilated back into our daily routine. We both worked some extra hours this last week, a small price to pay for the flexibility and time off we get as a result.

I also experienced a bit of fall-out physically from the trip. Yes, we were both tired and had enough bike driving (sore butt) to last awhile but I am talking about my neck and shoulders. They were stiff and sore and did not ease up almost a week back. A good massage helped immensely. The tenseness of driving in those early sections along with the incessant wind right up into New Brunswick did a real number on me.

While still healing from the knots, stiffness and soreness, I slept on the bed at our retreat and used a different, not as supportive pillow. Bam! It was back again! I learned of the benefits of Voltaren and hot showers (despite a heat wave here) and it only took a couple days to get back to my old self again.

Note to self - these extreme type of driving trips are no longer fun!! I love to drive my bike on pavement and I am not against gravel or dirt conditions completely. It is driving in more remote areas, uncertain weather conditions and tires that are not ideal for the gravel roads we encountered. Even Pat, who is a highly experienced biker, found it a bit nerve wracking at times. When I followed him, I would slow down and that would make the travel worse over the stones. In front, I kept up my speed better. Pat also agrees that I am better to not go on one of these again as he found he worried about me constantly. When behind him, he was forever checking me in his mirrors, when I was in front, he worried that I would lose control and wipe out.

We traveled 6300 km in 18 days on this particular journey. Nothing phenomenal but we did manage to see and experience a part of Canada that few do. The Trans Labrador Highway is 1247 km in total length. Not all of it is rough conditions. We never did get a satellite phone and thank goodness didn't need it. Not sure why they have a program like this in place if in the two places we checked (Lab City and Churchill Falls) they didn't have any available.

The challenging section is about 500 km long, between where you get on the TLH near Happy Valley/Goose Bay and ending in Red Bay. We did it over 2 days, the first one was the longest as we drove from HV/GB to Port Hope Simpson. The next day we drove to L'Anse-au-Clair. The road conditions had improved but our drive was in heavy rain and cold temps. Off the coast, we spotted many icebergs, bluish tinged blobs sitting there in the frigid water.

Not to be left out, Highway 389 in Quebec that runs from Baie-Comeau to Labrador City was a close second. Yes, it is paved up to Manic Cinq but had numerous construction sites that were plagued with mud (yes, this is where I wiped out in the ditch!) due to the ongoing rain and too many curves to mention. The section between Manic Cinq and Lab City was a mini version of the TLH and the gravel portion was about 300 km long. It was a dry day we drove it and the dust was unbelievable. Most of the trucks slowed down but many did not.

Labrador is beautifully stark, remote and in parts has brutal road, weather conditions. The people are extremely friendly, resilient and hardy. If things don't work out, they seem okay and easy going about it. Who knew there would still be snow on the roadsides in June? Pat said ideally we should have brought a spare set of tires (one for the highways, one for the gravel) but that just wasn't realistic. Instead we basically used similar tires as those we drove with to Inuvik, with one spare rear that could be used on either bike.

My bike performed excellent, good engine and used virtually no oil while Pat's burned about a total of 1.25 litres. His "doohickey" or timing chain has become very noisy and he may need to replace it soon. My new gloves worked really well, although we both preferred the rubber gloves (made from wetsuit material) in the heavy rain (with my pokeman gloves worn on the inside for extra warmth).

My boots let me down but I should have given them a good oiling before I left, like Pat did to his. My rain pants from Mountain Equipment Co-op worked great in lighter to medium rain but leaked in the heavy downpour. Our Frog Tog jackets under light to moderate conditions were fine but leaked in heavy rain. They are bulky to wear and store. Not real happy with them...

Our helmets fogged up in the rain, Pat put a piece of duct tape to keep the face shield from closing completely. Again, I had anti-fogging spray I could have used in advance but forgot.
My face shield is scratched badly after my mishap in the ditch and I broke the visor or peak (again). Pat stuck it together with duct tape but it still made a kind of vibration as drove at higher speeds or windy conditions. Thinking its time for a new one soon.

By the end of the trip, the Bluetooth headsets were easier to use, but needed daily charging. We learned to not leave the channel open all day as it drains the battery quickly. I still found it tricky to activate the intercom button wearing gloves when I wanted to say something.

We camped only 4 nights this trip due to the wet and cold conditions. The air mattresses worked out in combo with the sleeping pads. I asked Pat if he would have left behind any tools or equipment now that we are back and he said no but he would have liked to do a little fishing with the line and hook he brought in Quebec, Labrador or Nfld but the weather was too crappy.

We were on a time schedule to catch the ferry from Port Aux Basques to North Sydney so we didn't have time to doddle or relax. We spent some time looking over our route in advance and how we could break up the more demanding parts of the TLH but there just isn't anywhere to stay and camping was not an option as we thought the bugs would be terrible. If you have an RV, it would have been easy to pull off somewhere and bunk down for the night. Saving grace here, the cold and wet temps kept the bugs at bay :)

I asked Pat if he had considered living anywhere we travelled on this trip and he said no. I had to agree. When we both thought about how this trip changed us, Pat said it didn't, but then he added that when you are sleeping in a tent, you just don't get the same rest. Again, a blessing in disguise that the most challenging parts of our route had us staying in B & B's. He also said that the long days of dirt, gravel and dust are not relaxing. Surprise!!!

Time is always an important element when preparing for any kind of bike travel and Pat naturally relied on our success from last year to guide him. He also had a race the day before we left and therefore had to coordinate tools, equipment and gear very quickly while tuckered out after a long drive. It would have been beneficial to have more of a gap between these two events.

We do regret not being able to do a tour of the hydroelectric dams we passed (Manic Cinq and Churchill Falls) but they don't start up until the end of June and the weather was crap anyway!

The TLH is known as the loneliest road in the world. Maybe that is why all those truckers drive too fast on it, to get the heck off of it! I wouldn't drive it again on a bike and I am really glad I had an experienced riding partner with me to experience it with. It is remote for sure but very beautiful and full of nature! Okay, now Pat can check this one off the bucket list!

Here are some extra pics.

My Pokemon gloves that kept my hands warm under my riding and wet weather gloves

Where I landed in the ditch, my helmet bouncing off the (thankfully) wet, muddy sand on the other side

At breakfast, Motel de L'energie, just south of Manic Cinq, Hwy 389, Quebec.

Checking out Mount Wright ahead on Hwy 389, Quebec.

If you zoom in on this pic it is a great visual of our travel from Baie-Comeau to Port aux Basques, Nfld

Approaching Blanc Sablon ferry, Quebec to take us over to St Barbe, Nfld. If you zoom in, you can see the icebergs in more detail.

The rest of the pics below are from Mount Washington, New Hampshire.

My sincere apologies again for the delay in finishing up the blog and for my inability to sort out the videos!

You'll see. I'll finally get the hang of this whole blog business on my very final motorcycle trip....wonder where and when that will be?

Till next time...

Day 17 & 18 - closer to home

Day 17 Rutland, Vermont to Weedsport, N.Y.

Rain was looming as we took down our tent. We have today & tomorrow to get home. If need be, we could stretch out another day but we were both interested in getting home.

I joked that wouldn't it be fun to do it all again but the other direction? Ya sure!! The weather might be better but that means bugs, the mosquito & black fly type!

As we set out, the sky ahead was darkening more & more so we put on our wet gear. Sure enough, a torrential storm hit with heavy rain. We rode for awhile, then ducked into a McDonald's for a hot drink and to dry off. 

It stopped eventually and we set off toward Auburn N.Y., which is in the Finger Lakes district. When planning this trip, I was determined to not take the Hwy 401 route from Kingston. Multi-lane travel at high speeds really makes me nervous. The alternative was to take the shorter QEW route from Niagara. I hoped to make it as painless as possible.

We ended up at a campground north of Auburn, in the town of Weedsport. It had an on-site restaurant which suited us fine on our last night. 

Camping (private anyway), belongs to RV'ers. Most times,  when we go to a private campground, they don't know what to do with us as most of their visitors have RV's or 5th wheels.

They usually stick us in some far corner (which is fine since we don't need services). I can walk to get water for cooking or washing as I need it.

Tonite we camped on a lovely spot of grass in the "transient" or "overnight" camping area, stuck between the RVer's and the kids playground.

It was a nice evening, we could have sat outside at the nearby restaurant & listened to barking dogs & playing kids but we decided to eat indoors & soak up the ambience.

The place is plastered with posters of aging or dead celebrities. We quizzed each other waiting for our dinner - tonight's special. It was pasta & sauce with meatballs or sausage. It was huge! Also came with a side salad & bread. Way too much food & when the waitress suggested we pack it up & take with us, we had to decline of course.

What a mess I could envision in my side case! Who likes to eat cold pasta & sauce anyway! At the border I could imagine me listing the contents of my luggage & the officer then deciding to search the whole kit'n'kaboodle, dirty laundry & all!

The noise from the nearby I-90 was non-stop. Thank goodness for ear plugs!

Mileage 400 km

Day 18 Weedsport to home!

Up early packed & ready for home! We took a short scenic route along Lake Ontario. In the town of Olcott Beach, walked around short bit.

Pat in front of the historic Olcott Lighthouse

Stopped for lunch in the town of Wilson at the marina (our daughter's family name). It was a really good sandwich!

The border was a bit busy crossing over as it was after lunch. We hit the QEW and headed toward Guelph. The traffic was thick & moving at about 110 km/hr. I find anything over 100 km and I just can't judge distances, stopping times as well, plus my whole body vibrates from the bike, can't see much detail out my rear mirrors either. I was in front, staying to the right lane and was petrified a few times as Pat had merging traffic coming from his right side.

Up Hwy 6 and sigh! We were home, in one piece (each) 😃 It looked drier and drier as we headed west toward home but the grass around our place dead and brown & no rain in the forecast. 

Going to take a day or two to process our journey & "lessons learned". Plus I found out I have been loading videos wrong and that is why they aren't working!

Talk again soon! Thanks for hanging in there!

Day 16 - more pics from Mount Washington, New Hampshire

On a break up the mountain - the scenery was mesmerizing....had to work hard to keep focus

That light coloured area just to the right of the middle of the picture is where we started from, 8 miles below. 

Pat at the summit of Mount Washington....over 6,000 feet up! Had to keep swallowing as we climbed on the bikes as my ears blocked up

Pat checking out the train you can take up and down. The engine is angled for efficiency.

You can drive yourself up, get driven up in one of the mini vans or ride the train. Options going down include the same but you can also take a hiking trail down or walk on the road (no hitchhiking allowed). Vehicles are given a complimentary CD to listen to while they drive up. 

Day 16 - Hanover, Maine to Rutland, Vermont

Had rain last night, having the tarp up helped keep the tent dry for packing up in the morning.

A short ride to the New Hampshire border and then to Mount Washington. The last time we passed this way (2 yrs ago), it had been raining, cool & the mountain was shrouded in mist & clouds. We continued on our journey. 

We hoped today would be a good one to explore it. The conditions were favourable and we were told they were "open" for motorcycles.

The majority of the 8 mile climb up is on pavement with some steep inclines, blind corners & curves. The recommended speed is 20-25 miles/hr. 

The last couple of miles are challenging, on a motorcycle, at least I found them to be. One section is dirt, quite narrow & steep. 

Two yrs ago we drove the Cabot Trail on our bikes. I had this awful experience where I reached a hairpin which then climbed steeply with curves & had a car right up my butt. I missed a gear, faltered slightly & recovered but feared greatly that I would end up off the bike & run over by this close following car. As soon as I could, I pulled off to the right, stopped & just let the tears fall & the shaking gradually subsided as Pat came to my rescue. 

I had a somewhat similar time today on Mount Washington. Another hairpin turn, on pavement and with no car behind me. There was a car that pulled off to the right in front of me as I approached the turn & this may have taken away from my focus. I took the turn in second instead of first gear and had to shift down on a very steep uphill. I wobbled, moved into the oncoming traffic lane (thankfully nothing coming), put my feet down in case it stalled & I needed to ground myself, but I held on, got the gear down & revs up & recovered.

I could see Pat up ahead checking his mirror watching me, checking to make sure I was ok.

The top parking area has 2 levels & we parked on the first which was thick, chunky gravel. I still felt a bit shaky but the unfolding view had me mesmerized already.

We walked around, took some pics, video, checked out the museum, had a snack/tea. There were some clouds/mist when we started up but they dispersed by the time we reached the top.

The view was absolutely phenomenal. It is posted that on a clear day you can see across to 5 states and Canada. The highest velocity of winds ever recorded (in 1934) were from there at over 200 miles per hour.

Soon it was time to head back down & I felt a small twinge of unease. I kept front & centre of my focus - low gear & back brake on dirt.....

All worked out fine and we passed many bikers going up and down. We followed a couple of really nice scenic, curvy roads as we still needed to put in some mileage for the day. 

After picking up some groceries, it started getting later & we didn't see a campground or they were state campgrounds in the trees and likely extra costs like park passes.

Eventually we found a private campground on a farm. The couple who run it (since 1968) were planning their (large) garden when we arrived.

The open, sunny sites meant we could enjoy our dinner, even if a bit later than usual.

It was a bit rustic yet quiet and calm for a restful sleep.

Total mileage today - 375 km

This sign is posted at the bottom of the climb up the mountain

We stopped partway up & took this selfie

Day 15 - Acadia National Park to Hanover, Maine

I find I am shoving more and more in my yellow sack that sits behind me on the passenger seat. That means I have extra space in my 2 side and rear compartments for whatever.

Lately I have been storing the cooler knapsack in a side compartment, storing the day before leftovers but it leaks! I have to put it in a bag and then mop up any leaks I find at the end of the day.

Now the major focus of our trip is over, we are eager to return home. However, it is not a short drive to get there. We are averaging 350 km daily, some days more, some less. Today we did 295 km.

As we left our campground at Acadia National Park, we drove out further on the headland to the Bass Harbour Lighthouse. It was first thing in the morning but people around, checking it out like us.

Back on the highway north off the peninsula and stopped at Bangor for a late breaky.

As we continued heading west on Hwy #2, we passed through Mexico and it was real stinky due to a paper/pulp mill.

Tonite we are camping at a real rustic campground about 40 min east of Mount Washington in New Hampshire. It is hot & humid out and Pat did his magic in making up a tasty dinner on the grill/fire.

Tomorrow we plan to make the trek to Mount Washington and add yet another sticker to our side boxes.

Sue at Bass Harbour Lighthouse, Acadia National Park, Maine

Our campsite at Hanover, Maine. Loved the smell of the pines & needles but the heat also brought out the sap. Pat put up the tarp to keep off the sticky stuff. It was a Ninja challenge, getting around all the secured tie-offs, especially once it became dusk. 

Here is a great pic of our two bikes loaded from the back. Mine on the left has the 2 (empty) gas cans and my yellow waterproof sack and of course my 2 side & rear compartment full.  I carried the kitchen/cooking tools & food. Pat is carrying the two sleeping pad/mattress units, the tent along with his yellow waterproof sack. He also carried all the camping equipment & tools/supplies.

Day 14 - St John N.B. to Acadia National Park, Maine

Our first night of camping so far for this trip went well! Pat discovered at his first race for the season at Shannonville that the thin air mattresses only need 20 puffs of air. When it is put at the bottom and the sleep pad on top, you don't get cold & you have a bit of cushion too.
Lots of light out overnight from the full moon. 


Back on the Hwy 1 toward the Maine border. A really nice drive, not too much traffic, still strong winds but nothing too intense, we drove about 2 hrs before getting into Maine.

The coastal road (highway 1 again) was much more busy, being Father's day, Sunday drivers, etc. We found the signage not as good as in Canada.

Decided to cook at our site since many of the local eateries will be packed later. Picked up groceries at the IGA on highway #3 that heads south toward the park.

Highway #102 is the one that leads to the Seawall campground, the same spot we enjoyed 2 yrs ago. I am finding that we naturally gravitate toward those places we experienced fun & happiness at in the past. Guess that's human nature!

Kind of deflated our buoyant mood when we checked in & were told we also had to pay for a park pass that would be valid for a week. No other options for folks like us who are passing through/non-residents/senior/retired.

We were tired after our run of 334 km, didn't feel up to driving around to find another so we sucked it up & paid. If you are planning a visit to the area & wish to spend a week or so discovering it's beauty & wildness, then it would be grand to purchase the week's pass. I thought about pulling up to some random family heading south as we left heading north, to see if they could use our pass but I felt uneasy about it. With all the recent shootings, the person I approach could be carrying a weapon & be trigger happy, not knowing what I wanted....

I find most people we come across on our travels both in Canada & the U.S. are friendly & helpful. I have a warm memory of a trip to Boston to meet up with Pat's brother John & wife Kathleen from Ireland. We flew in and took the "Big T" (transit system) all over the city. One time we were standing looking at the transit map & a fellow came up & asked if we needed help to find our way! We'll be back some day Boston.....love the pubs & the Irish spirit!

Back at the Seawall campground, it was getting later, although somewhere on our travels today we switched back to EST from Atlantic time.

Bonus! Time for a relaxing walk to the seashore & naturally Pat brought along a bag to collect sea snails in.....to cook back at our site. His biggest concern was not what the park officials might say seeing him collect these or if there was any bacteria in this area's water. Nope! Biggest concern was do we have a needle, pin or safety pin that he can use to pull the wee buggers out of their shell to eat when cooked!

Pat cooked us up a delicious steak dinner & we had a sunset stroll nearby.  The campground is still very clean with flush toilets & fresh water but no services. 

There is something about being near the ocean that lifts my spirits. May be because I am a Pisces. Fantastic way to camp, fresh sea air, can hear the Bell buoy clanging in the distance & the full moon. Dad's battery radio is with us on all our travels so we don't have to rely on hydro to get weather updates and we can groove to local tunes. A memorable day indeed!

I took a pic of the area we stayed in from a local publication. I circled the Seawall campground near the bottom

Sue at Frenchman Bay, Maine

Pat collecting sea snails, Seawall campground. Acadia National Park, Maine

A short clip of the seashore near our campsite

Day 13 - Truro N.S. to St John, N.B.

Nothing like the warmth of a June day combined with visiting family - makes my heart feel very happy and content! 

We left Truro with Breda's homemade bread, stewed rhubarb & set off for St John, N.B.

Pat with his sister Breda

Breda and Adrian

They have a resident Pheasant who walks & struts around the back while letting out the occasional crow. We heard him early in the morning just like a rooster!

Pat & Adrian visited the local Kawasaki dealer so Pat could pick up a master link for his chain as the current one getting worn, he said from lack of grease. He then proceeded to oil both our chains.

He also put on the spare rear tire he has been carting on the back of his rear compartment since we left. 

Since we left my bike has used virtually nil oil and his has used 1 litre.

Lovely sunny day, this is the kind of bike weather we love....not too hot! The winds brisk again (must be an Eastern Canada thing).

From Amherst (border between N.S. & N.B.) for about 50 km, we endured strong, consistent winds from the Bay of Fundy that had us leaned over greatly! 

In addition, they removed the top surface of pavement leaving deep grooves that had the front wheel shifting, as it tried to find the best path to move in. This was at highway speed (110 km) - naturally I slowed down but it was still out of my comfort zone but all worked out ok!

During our 350 km ride today, we took a few breaks. Highway speeds on a bike like ours is very rattling to the arms, neck, head, torso. I can't even see clearly out of my mirrors what is going on behind me (usually Pat) because they too are vibrating like crazy!

We arrived in St John, picked up some groceries & found Rockwood Park again. It is smack dab in the middle of the city, up high so you have a good view plus the noise of the traffic below.

Wouldn't you know it, we chose the exact same spot as 2 yrs ago when we ventured out this way to ride the Cabot Trail.

Pat cooked us up a delicious dinner of salmon on the barbecue as we watched the day's glowing sun disappear and the almost full moon rise.

Our campsite at Rockwood Park, St John, N.B.